The Matterhorn (Fr. Mont Cervin, It. Cervino)

The Matterhorn (4478 meters, 14,688 feet) obviously requires no introduction. It's unique and beautiful form, its importance in the history of alpinism and the dramatic story of its first ascent, guarantee its place in the mountaineering Hall of Fame. The classic Hörnli Ridge will always be popular not only because of its history, but also for the quality of its situation, following a beautiful and exposed line between the steep East and North faces of the peak.

Strictly speaking, the climbing is moderate in technical difficulty, but because of its length (a vertical gain of 4000 feet on technical ground), altitude and exposure, requires efficiency of movement and attention to technique, as well as commitment and endurance. The fact that it is undoubtedly one of the most sought after routes in the Alps, does not diminish its qualities as a demanding and beautiful ascent.

General Information:

First ascent: Edward Whymper, Charles Hudson, Robert D. Hadow, Lord Francis Douglas, Michel Auguste Croz, Peter Taugwalder, father and son, 14:th of July 1865.

Height difference: 1218 meters from Hörnlihütte to the Swiss summit.

 Difficulty: III-. Mainly rock, often loose. Snow and ice from the shoulder to the summit. Fixed ropes on the steepest parts.

Best months for climbing: July, August, September

Time: 5-6 hours.

Starting point: Hörnlihütte.

The route: The difficult part is to find your way.

Descent: Via Hörnli ridge (Hörnligrat), 4 hours.

Equipment and clothing: rope (8.1mm Ice Floss), one/two slings, adjustable harness , figure 8, helmet, (www.bluewaterropes.com), one mountain axe, one/two ice screws, one/two pitons, one lock carabiner, 2 extra simple carabiners, 3 quickdraws,  (www.omegapac.com), crampons, headlamp, trekking, (www.bdel.com),  good mountaineering boots (www.sportiva.com), clothing (www.marmot.com), socks (www.tekosocks.com), sunglasses (www.julbousa.com), sunblock lotion (www.rei.com/product/610053)